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CHAIN MAIL TUNIC WITH SLEEVES

Chest 38-40, (42-44)

Materials

Size 15 knitting needles or size needed to achieve gauge.
4 lbs. (1840 ft.) #36 Twisted Nylon Cord, dyed black

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
psso: pass slipped stitch over
sl: slip
rep: repeat
st(s): stitch(es)
tog: together
inc: increase
dec: decrease
bo: bind off

Gauge (taken in stockinette stitch): 2-1/2 stitches = 1 inch; 3 rows = 1 inch

General Information: Pattern is reverse stockinette st (purl one row, knit one row with purl as right side of garment). Join new cord at the ends, not in the middle, of the row. Measurements should be taken while garment is laying flat. Pieces will be seamed at the side seams and partially at the shoulder seam. Sleeves will be seamed at the underarm.

Tunic Back:
Beginning at bottom edge, loosely cast on 46 sts (52sts.).
Row 1: Purl (right side).
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: Knit.
Row 5: Purl.
Row 6: Knit.
Row 7: Purl.
Row 8: Knit.
Row 9: Purl.
Row 10: Knit.
Row 11: Purl.
Row 12: Knit.
Row 13: Purl.
Row 14: Knit.
Row 15: Purl.
Row 16: Knit.
Row 17: Purl.
Row 18: Knit.
Row 19: Purl.
Row 20: Knit.
Row 21: Purl.
Row 22: Knit.
Row 23: Purl.
Row 24: Knit.
Row 25: Purl.
Row 26: Knit.
Row 27: Purl.
Row 28: Knit.
Row 29: Purl.
Row 30: Knit.
Row 31: Purl.
Row 32: Knit.
Row 33: Purl.
Row 34: Knit.
Row 35: Purl.
Row 36: Knit.
Row 37: Purl.
Row 38: Knit.
Row 39: Purl.
Row 40: Knit.
Row 41: Purl.
Row 42: Knit.
Row 43: Purl.
Row 44: Knit.
Row 45: Purl.
Row 46: Knit.
Row 47: Purl.
Row 48: Knit.
Row 49: Purl.
Row 50: Knit.
Row 51: Purl.
Row 52: Knit.
Row 53: Purl.
Row 54: Knit.
Row 55: Purl.
Row 56: Knit.
Row 57: Purl.
Row 58: Knit.
Row 59: Purl.
Row 60: Knit.
Row 61: Purl.
Row 62: Knit.
Row 63: Purl.
Row 64: Knit.
Row 65: Purl.
Row 66: Knit.
Row 67: Purl.
Row 68: Knit.
Row 69: Purl.
Row 70: Knit.
Row 71: Purl.

Armscye Shaping (piece will measure approximately 24"):
Row 72: Bo 3 sts knitwise, k across (43, 49 sts).
Row 73: Bo 3 sts purlwise, p across (40, 46 sts).
Row 74: K2tog, k36 (42), k2tog (38, 44 sts).
Row 75: Purl.
Row 76: K2tog, k34 (40), k2tog (36, 42 sts).
Row 77: Purl.
Row 78: K2tog, k32 (38), k2tog (34, 40 sts).
Row 79: Purl.
Row 80: Knit.
Row 81: Purl.
Row 82: Knit.
Row 83: Purl.
Row 84: Knit.
Row 85: Purl.
Row 86: Knit.
Row 87: Purl.
Row 88: Knit.
Row 89: Purl.
Row 90: Knit.
Row 91: Purl.
Row 92: Inc. 1 st at beginning and end of row, k across (36, 42 sts).
Row 93: Purl.
Row 94: Knit.
Row 95: Purl.
Row 96: Inc. 1 st at beginning and end of row, k across (38, 44 sts).
Row 97: Purl.
Row 98: Knit.
Row 99: Purl.

Shoulder Shaping:
Row 100: Bo 3 sts knitwise, k across (35, 41 sts).
Row 101: Bo 3 sts purlwise, p across (32, 38 sts).
Row 102: Bo 3 sts knitwise, k across (29, 35 sts).
Row 103: Bo 3 sts purlwise, p across (26, 32 sts).
Row 104: Bo 3 sts knitwise, k across (23, 29 sts).
Row 105: Bo 3 sts purlwise, p across (20, 26 sts).

Neck Shaping (38-40):
Row 106: Bo 3 sts knitwise, k6, bo 5 sts knitwise at center of neck, k5.
There will be 6 sts on both the right and left sides of the needle with the center bo sts separating them.
Row 107: Bo 3 sts purlwise, p2 (3sts). Place remaining 6 sts from left needle onto stitch holder. Turn.
Row 108: K3 sts.
Row 109: Bo remaining 3 sts purlwise.
Row 110: Put 6 sts from stitch holder onto a needle. Attach cord at neck edge. P6 sts.
Row 111: Bo 3sts knitwise, k2 (3sts).
Row 112: Purl.
Row 113: Bind off remaining 3 sts loosely.

Neck Shaping (42-44):
Row 106: Bo 3 sts knitwise, k7, bo 6 sts knitwise at center of neck, k9.
There will be 7 sts on the right side of the needle and 10 sts on the left side with the bo sts separating them. Turn.
Row 107: Bo 3 sts purlwise, p6 (7sts).
Place remaining 7 sts from left needle onto stitch holder. Turn
Row 108: Bo 2 sts knitwise at neck edge, k4 (5 sts).
Row 109: Bo 3 sts purlwise at armscye edge, p1 (2 sts).
Row 110: Knit.
Row 111: Bo remaining 2 sts knitwise.
Row 112: Put sts from holder onto needle starting at shoulder edge.
Attach cord at neck edge. Bo 2 sts purlwise at neck edge, p4 (5 sts.)
Row 113: Bo 3sts knitwise at armscye edge, k1 (2 sts).
Row 114: Purl.
Row 115: Bo remaining 2 sts knitwise.

Tunic Front: Repeat as for Tunic Back through Row 71.

Armscye Shaping:
Row 72: Bo 3 sts knitwise, k across (43, 49 sts).
Row 73: Bo 3 sts purlwise, p across (40, 46 sts).
Row 74: K2tog knitwise, k across (38, 44 sts).
Row 75: Purl.
Row 76: K2tog, k34 (40), k2tog (36, 42 sts).
Row 77: Purl.
Row 78: K2tog, k32 (38), k2tog (34, 40 sts).
Row 79: Purl.
Row 80: Knit.
Row 81: Purl.
Row 82: Knit.
Row 83: Purl.
Row 84: Knit.
Row 85: Purl.
Row 86: Knit.
Row 87: Inc. 1 st at beginning and end of row, p across (36, 42 sts).
Row 88: Knit.
Row 89: Purl.
Row 90: Knit.
Row 91: Purl.
Row 92: Knit.
Row 93: Purl.
Row 94: Knit.
Row 95: Purl.
Row 96: Inc. 1 st at beginning and end of row, k across (38, 44 sts).
Row 97: Purl.
Row 98: Knit.
Row 99: Purl.
Row 100: Knit.

Neck Shaping/Shoulder Shaping (38-40):
Row 101: P18, bo center 4 sts purlwise, p16.
There will be 17 sts on both the left and right sides of the needle with the bo stitches separating them. Turn.
Row 102: K15, k2tog (16 sts). Place remaining set of sts on a stitch holder. Turn.
Row 103: Purl (16 sts).
Row 104: Bo 3 sts knitwise at armscye edge, k10, k2tog at neck edge (12 sts).
Row 105: Purl.
Row 106: Bo 3 sts knitwise, k8 (9 sts).
Row 107: Purl.
Row 108: Bo 4 sts knitwise, k4 (5 sts).
Row 109: Purl.
Row 110: Bo 3 sts knitwise, k1 (2 sts).
Row 111: Purl.
Row 112: Bo remaining 2 sts knitwise.
Row 113: Place sts from holder on needle starting at shoulder edge.
Reattach cord at neck edge, k2 tog, k15 (16 sts.)
Row 114: Bo 3 sts purlwise at armscye edge, p10, p2tog (12 sts).
Row 115: Knit.
Row 116: Bo 3 sts purlwise, p8 (9 sts).
Row 117: Knit.
Row 118: Bo 4 sts purlwise, p4 (5 sts).
Row 119: Knit.
Row 120: Bo 3 sts purlwise, p1 (2 sts).
Row 121: Knit.
Row 122: Bo remaining 2 sts purlwise.

Neck Shaping/Shoulder Shaping (42-44):
Row 101: P20, bo center 6 sts, P18. There will be 19 sts on both the left
and right sides of the needle with the bo stitches separating them. Turn.
Row 102: Knit 1st set of 19 sts. Place remaining set of sts on a stitch
holder.
Row 103: Purl (19 sts).
Row 104: Bo 3 sts knitwise at armscye edge, k13, k2tog at neck edge
(15 sts).
Row 105: Purl.
Row 106: Bo 3 sts, k11 (12 sts).
Row 107: Purl.
Row 108: Bo 3 sts, k8 (9 sts).
Row 109: Purl.
Row 110: Bo 3 sts, k5 (6 sts).
Row 111: Purl.
Row 112: Bo 3 sts, k2 (3 sts).
Row 113: Purl.
Row 114: Bo remaining 3 sts knitwise.
Row 115: Place sts from holder on needle starting at shoulder edge.
Reattach cord at neck edge, k19 sts.
Row 116: Bo 3 sts purlwise at armscye edge, p13, p2tog (15 sts).
Row 117: Knit.
Row 118: Bo 3 sts purlwise, p11 (12 sts).
Row 119: Knit.
Row 120: Bo 3 sts purlwise, p8 (9 sts).
Row 121: Knit.
Row 122: Bo 3 sts purlwise, p5 (6 sts).
Row 123: Knit.
Row 124: Bo 3 sts purlwise, p2 (3 sts).
Row 125: Knit.
Row 126: Loosely bind off remaining 3 sts loosely.

Left Sleeve:
Beginning at wrist, loosely cast on 22 sts.
Row 1: Purl (right side).
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: Inc. 1 st at beginning and end of row, k across (24 sts).
Row 5: Purl.
Row 6: Knit.
Row 7: Purl.
Row 8: Knit.
Row 9: Purl.
Row 10: Inc. 1 st at beginning and end of row, k across (26 sts).
Row 11: Purl.
Row 12: Knit.
Row 13: Purl.
Row 14: Knit.
Row 15: Purl.
Row 16: Inc. 1 st at beginning and end of row, k across (28 sts).
Row 17: Purl.
Row 18: Knit.
Row 19: Purl.
Row 20: Knit.
Row 21: Purl.
Row 22: Inc. 1 st at beginning and end of row, k across (30 sts).
Row 23: Purl.
Row 24: Knit.
Row 25: Purl.
Row 26: Knit.
Row 27: Purl.
Row 28: Knit.
Row 29: Inc. 1 st at beginning and end of row, p across (32 sts).
Row 30: Knit.
Row 31: Purl.
Row 32: Knit.
Row 33: Purl.
Row 34: Knit.
Row 35: Purl.
Row 36: Inc. 1 st at beginning and end of row, k across (34 sts).
Row 37: Purl.
Row 38: Knit.
Row 39: Purl.
Row 40: Knit.
Row 41: Purl.
Row 42: Inc. 1 st at beginning and end of row, k across (36 sts).
Row 43: Purl.
Row 44: Knit.
Row 45: Purl.
Row 46: Knit.
Row 47: Purl.
Row 48: Inc. 1 st at beginning and end of row, k across (38 sts).
Row 49: Purl.
Row 50: Knit.
Row 51: Purl.
Row 52: Knit.
Row 53: Purl.
Row 54: Inc. 1 st at beginning and end of row, k across (40 sts).
Row 55: Purl.
Row 56: Knit.
Row 57: Purl.
Row 58: Knit.
Row 59: Purl.
Sleeve Cap Shaping:
Row 60: Bo 3 sts knitwise, k across (37 sts).
Row 61: Bo 3 sts purlwise, p across (34 sts).
Row 62: Bo 2 sts knitwise, k across (32 sts).
Row 63: Bo 2 sts purlwise, p across (30 sts).
Row 64: Bo 1 st, k across (29 sts).
Row 65: Bo 1 st, p across (28 sts).
Row 66: Knit.
Row 67: Bo 1 st, p across (27 sts).
Row 68: Bo 1 st, k across (26 sts).
Row 69: Purl.
Row 70: Bo 1 st, k across (25 sts).
Row 71: Bo 1 st, p across (24 sts).
Row 72: Bo 1 st, k across (23 sts).
Row 73: Bo 1 st, p across (22 sts).
Row 74: Knit.
Row 75: Bo 1 st, p across (21 sts).
Row 76: Bo 2 sts, k across (19 sts).
Row 77: Bo 1 st, p across (18 sts).
Row 78: Bo 1 st, k across (17 sts).
Row 79: Bo 1 st, p across (16 sts).
Row 80: Bo 1 st, k across (15 sts).
Row 81: Bo 1 st, p across (14 sts).
Row 82: Bo 2 sts, k across (12 sts).
Row 83: Bo 2 sts, p across (10 sts).
Row 84: Bo 1 st, k across (9 sts).
Row 85: Bo 1 st, p across (8 sts).
Row 86: Bo 3 sts, k across (5 sts).
Row 87: Loosely bind off remaining 5 sts knitwise.

Right Sleeve: Repeat as for left sleeve through Row 59.

Sleeve Cap Shaping:
Row 60: Knit.
Row 61: Bo 3 sts, p across (37 sts).
Row 62: Bo 3 sts, k across (34 sts).
Row 63: Bo 2 sts, p across (32 sts).
Row 64: Bo 2 sts, k across (30 sts).
Row 65: Bo 1 st, p across (29 sts).
Row 66: Bo 1 st, k across (28 sts).
Row 67: Purl.
Row 68: Bo 1 st, k across (27 sts).
Row 69: Bo 1 st, p across (26 sts).
Row 70: Knit.
Row 71: Bo 1 st, p across (25 sts).
Row 72: Bo 1 st, k across (24 sts).
Row 73: Bo 1 st, p across (23 sts).
Row 74: Bo 1 st, k across (22 sts).
Row 75: Purl.
Row 76: Bo 1 st, k across (21 sts).
Row 77: Bo 2 sts, p across (19 sts).
Row 78: Bo 1 st, k across (18 sts).
Row 79: Bo 1 st, p across (17 sts).
Row 80: Bo 1 st, k across (16, sts).
Row 81: Bo 1 st, p across (15 sts).
Row 82: Bo 1 st, k across (14 sts).
Row 83: Bo 2 sts, p across (12 sts).
Row 84: Bo 2 sts, k across (10 sts).
Row 85: Bo 1 st, p across (9 sts).
Row 86: Bo 1 st, k across (8 sts).
Row 87: Bo 3 sts, p across (5 sts).
Row 88: Loosely bind off remaining 5 sts.

Finishing: Knot ends of cord as otherwise it will ravel. Stitch the ends of the cord into the piece after weaving them in place to prevent raveling. After work has been foiled and set, stitch the sleeve seams and side seams by butting edges of seams together and overcasting by hand or zigzagging by machine. Stitch 2" of left shoulder seams, completely stitch right shoulder seam. Finish left shoulder seam opening by creating a placket with black grosgrain as follows: cut three pieces of grosgrain the length of the seam plus 1", this will allow for 1/2 seam allowances top and bottom. Create a placket underlap by stitching two pieces of grosgrain together with a 1/2" seam at top and bottom. Topstitch grosgrain together along long edges. Whipstitch by hand, or stitch with an industrial sewing machine, onto the underlap side. Whipstitch by hand, or stitch with an industrial sewing machine, the third piece of grosgrain on the overlap side, to the wrong side of the garment. Sew #3 snaps on both underlap and overlap.